Friday, August 29, 2008

The Boat: Pucallpa to Iquitos

THE BOAT FROM PUCALLPA TO IQUITOS
We knew there were boats from Pucallpa to Iquitos. We knew the boat took between 3-7 days, depending on the water level. We also knew that there was no schedule. So, we asked around and found out some information: room on the boat should cost about 100 soles and space to hang a hammock about 80 soles, all the Henry boats were reputed to be the 'biggest and best' and Monday was the next scheduled departure day. So, on Monday we went to the docks in the morning to find out what's what...

MONDAY, DAY ONE
First, we found out how incredibly busy the docks are and how much manual labor there is. There were men carrying food, supplies - everything you can think of was being carried onto various ships.

Then, we went to the Henry boats. On Henry IV we found out that the rooms were tiny, had no windows, an unfriendly manager, and rooms which were way more than 100 soles. On Henry VI, we discovered room that had private bathrooms, windows, and a fan -- and cost even more. I was nervous not to get a boat and Arturo was determined not to get taken advantage of...so, we walked down the docks and checked out a couple of other boats. It's a good thing we did.

We finally settled on Men del Norte. It was the right price, a room with windows, and a very friendly owner. We were told to come back at 1:00 and that our departure time was about 2:00. We left to go back to the hostel to pack, enjoy our last shower for several days, and to pick up some snacks for the trip (all meals were included in the price).

At about 1:00 we returned to the boat, ready to settle in and watch the remaining cargo being loaded onto the boat. We put our bags in the very, very hot room we rented and went to hang out hammocks which we bought to use during the day. We decided to hang them next to the two foreigners also on the ship and, after working and sweating, Arturo successfully hung our two hammocks...
and we took the positions we would sit in for most of the following days: in our hammocks.

We met the group of 8 other backpackers on the ship. Doris from Austria, Lisa from Australia, a couple from Argentina, Ethan from the USA, Martin from Sweden, and Chris from Austria, and a slightly older gentleman from Chile.

As we got settled in, we realized that it was unlikely we will be leaving on time. In fact, the Austrian and Australian girls had been there since Saturday waiting to leave. We began to take bets on when we would leave...In the end, we left about 6:00 p.m. Our journey to the Amazon had really begun!

TUESDAY, DAY TWO - THURSDAY, DAY FOUR
Time passed both slowly and quickly. We made several stops along the way at various towns on the river bank. We met some of the locals on the ship, there for both business and pleasure. We enjoyed surprisingly good food at meal times (as the chef served us, he flirted outrageously with Arturo), and we read a lot. Of course, we also socialized with the people on the ship, talking and sharing our stories, while watching the incredible landscape.

Then, we stopped.

And didn't move

We were stuck in a sandbar.

After several hours, a small boat happened to come by and tried to help. They left quickly as they realized they were doing nothing but wasting gas. Eventually, a tug boat came and, after several more hours, we were moving again. We lost about 12 hours as a result of this, but we chalked this all up to 'part of the adventure.'

Several times through these next few days - which have now kind of blurred into one day - we saw pink and gray dolphins. Dolphins? Yes, the Amazon, and the rivers which form it, have fresh-water dolphins, both gray and pink. They are fascinating to watch, but very difficult to photograph. By the time you see them, move your camera and look through the tiny screen on the back of your camera, they have long since gone back under the water. I've included a photograph here from the following website which has some interesting information about these rare dolphins. http://www.amersol.edu.pe/ms/7th/7block/jungle_research/new_cards/14/report14hm.html
In addition to the amazing dolphins and tiny villages along the way, I realized something incredibly disturbing: all garbage from the ship was put into the river. I suspected that the toilets were going straight in, but thought that, surely, some garbage was being saved to deposit when we arrived in Iquitos. Then, we had a small pane in our windown break. When the guy came to sweep it up he promptly dumped all of the glass directly into the river. That is when it hit home: all garbage from the ship was put into the river. Of course, this was nothing new, but the amount of traffic and the type of garbage had changed and now was, as everywhere in the world, affecting life as you'll see when I write about Iquitos.

That small bit aside, the journey was relaxing, smooth and enjoyable. I learned how to play Texas Hold 'Em poker, read a book in Spanish (Tuck Everlasting - Tuck Para Siempre), read two books in English, watched incredible scenery, played with kids on the boat, talked with interesting foreigners, and had lots of time to think about my life.

THROUGH TO FRIDAY, DAY FIVE & OUR ARRIVAL DAY
On Thursday night we were told that we would definitely arrive in Iquitos Friday morning. To celebrate, we had a little party with the remainder of our beverage and snack supplies. We were all a bit tipsy as we went to sleep that night, but went to sleep relaxed, knowing we would arrive by the time we woke up.

Before that happened, I awoke to the light being switched on and three policemen asking me if I spoke Spanish. I answered, a bit disoriented. They were there to search the boat for drugs. Lisa, the girl from Australia, had been storing her bag in our room and that was their first object. Second was to look at our documents. I was a bit nervous to hand over my Peruvian resident's card and Arturo's national ID card while, next to me, Arturo was snorning loudly, oblivious to all that was happening. The police didn't seem to care about the Peruvian passed out in my bed and began to search our things. Our bags seemed to pass inspection, but he took out a bottle of pills and a small statue from Lisa's bag. He tested the statue with some pink liquid to see if there were drugs inside. Since she wasn't carrying any, the statue was clean and we were free to go back to sleep. Just as I was dozing off, ignorning the sounds of the search that was going on throughout the ship, there was anothing knock at the door. More police. They entered and wanted to search under the mattress. This was difficult as Arturo would not wake up or move. The policeman was very kind as he gently lifted Arturo's legs and looked under the mattress. We passed inspected yet again, as did - to the best of our knowledge - everyone else on the ship.

In the morning, we arrived into Iquitos where we were promptly greeted by someone from a hostel with a swimming pool for s/15 per person, per night (that's about $5).
A swimming pool?
We were sold.
We hopped into a moto-taxi with him and were on our way. And when I say 'we' I mean the entire group of backpackers together...off to the next stage of our adventure: Iquitos and the Jungle.

Sunday, August 24, 2008

The Road to the Amazon: Huánuco, Tingo María & Pucallpa

HUÁNUCO
We began our trip in Huánuco at a cheap little hostel with lovely artwork (ha ha) and an amazing shower. While the town itself isn't much to look at, it is geographically important as it lies on the upper reaches of the Río Huallaga, the major tributary of the Río Marañón before it becomes the Amazon.
Nearby is the Temple of Kotosh, one of Peru's oldest archeological sites, dating back to 2000 BC. Despite being out of the way and, essentially, in the middle of nowhere, there was a very knowledgeable guide and it was a well-organized site. There is a replica of the Temple of the Crossed Hands, as well as original parts of the various temples to see. It is unbelievable that after 4,000 years, many parts are more or less intact.

Even more incredible are the three Echo Points throughout the complex of temples. It's a very small circle where, when you speak, there is an echo. However, those outside the radius of the circle cannot hear the echo at all. As the guide was explaining this, Arturo and I exchanged skeptical looks - but then we tried it. Sure enough, when I stood there, I could hear a very, very loud echo, but those around me just heard my voice as it normally is. Scientists have still been unable to explain this...

We also took a little side trip to visit the house of Perrichola. This is the original home of a woman, Micaela Villegas, famous for her romance with Count Amat, essentially the King of Peru, sent from Spain, during the late 19th century. There are many versions of the story, but I most prefer the following: Amat fell in love with Micaela, who went to Lima to work for an Italian family. The family's name sounded similar to Perrichola, and thus is the reason this became her name. Amat, in his 60's, very much desired this beautiful 18 year old and offered her anything she wanted. She told him that she wanted to see the moon at his feet and he built her the Paseo de Aquas, still standing today in Rimac, where he could stand, at night, next to the water with the moon's reflection at his feet. It is also said that he bought her a gold and silver coach and, a less disputed fact, had a child with her. Probably the more likely story is that Amat called Micaela Perra Chola (half-breed bitch) during an argument which, combined and changed, became Perrichola. Regardless, he was later sent back to Spain and, altough in his 80's, married his niece and fathered other children with her. As for Perrichola, both during her time with Amat and after, she did her best to help her town and her people...although she apparantly angered quite a lot of people as she lived quite well because of her relationship with Amat. We went to this house, a simple one-floor house with a plain wooden carriage outside. Who knows what really happened...
TINGO MARÍA
Next stop was the tiny little town of Tingo María. Surprisingly, although it only has a population of 15,000, it is a thriving, bustling town which almost every Peruvian has heard of. Why? Because during the reign of Sandero Luminoso (Shining Path), in the 1980's to early 90's, this area - where much of the country's cocaine production happens - became a haven of violence. Oddly enough, however, this area, along with the rest of Peru, doesn't have serious issues of drug abuse. It's more about money and business than anything else.

Now, fortunately, the area is under control and the only signs we saw of the dangerous history were several security points which both questioned and, occasionally, searched people, along with a couple of whispered offers for coca on the street.

The landscape is beautiful, surrounded by mountains, waterfalls and caves. We went to the Parque Nacional Tingo María, enjoying La Cueva de las Lechuzas (the Cave of the Owls). This cave, surprisingly, is not known for its owls, but rather its colony of special "oil birds" which lives exclusively in the dark. If killed, these birds yield an abundance of oil which people use just like regular oil, mainly for cooking. The cave also houses stalactites and stalagmites, bats and other birds. The most beautiful part of the cave is the view from inside, looking out into the sunshine shining through the mouth of the cave.
Next stop was a beautiful, hidden away waterfall (of which we cannot remember the name).
Someone told Arturo about a waterfall, he asked around, and we took a taxi to a house with a dirth path next to it. We paid our ingreso to the house - apparantly for walking along their property - and were told to simply 'follow the trail' for about 45 minutes. Luckily, after about 40 minutes, we met some locals walking on the path (smoothly walking along the sliding mud in flip-flops like it's nothing while we were sliding all over the place) and found out that we had missed our turn. We backtracked and made it to a delicious waterfall, hidden away from the world. The sun was hidden by the trees and the water was freezing, but it was beautiful. We took a quick, barely-in-the-water dip to cool off and refresh ourselves.....
When we got back into town, we devoured fresh river fish and several jars of maracuya juice (passion fruit) and then walked over to the local Botanical Garden. It looked closed and was locked, but Arturo rang the bell and, after paying, we entered to walk around. It wasn't the most impressive of gardens, mainly because it didn't seem to be looked after very well, but nevertheless, it was a pleasant place.

PUCALLPA
Getting into the Amazon is tricky. You can't just drive there. So, other than flying, there are limited options. Pucallpa is one of the biggest 'jungle towns' directly connected by road to Lima, followed by direct boat access to the Amazon. It is for this reason that we went to Pucallpa: to take a boat to Iquitos, the official starting point of the Amazon, where several rivers intersect, forming the great Amazon River.
Probably the most famous place to visit in Pucallpa (for tourists at least) is Yarinacocha. This is a lake, now entirely landlocked, although it was once part of the Río Ucayali (My personal opinion? Another result of global warming). We ate lunch and then went to the lake, not quite sure what to expect. Our moto-taxi (tuk tuk as I still think of them), took us to to a lake surrounded on one side with restaurant after restaurant serving fresh, cheap fish. We were so disappointed that we'd just eaten lunch!
We hired a boat to take us over to a zoological center which, while it did house much local wildlife, wasn't the most thrilling of all the zoos I have been to. In fact, it was more sad than anything else to see the animals in tiny little cages. The one redeeming fact is that they used much of the surrounding nature as part of the cages, from the ground to the trees.
From there, Arturo remembered that we were near the Albergue of a friend's family. Our boat driver took us over and we just walked in, Arturo announcing "Hi, I'm Arturo. I'm a friend of Sandra's." That was more than enough (this friendliness is one of the things I love about Peruvians). We were welcomed into the house and sat and relaxed for a bit, enjoying some nice conversation and the beautiful house and its grounds. After warm good-byes, we were on our way to enjoy the end of our journey on the Yarinacocha by watching a tiny little boat with 7 people make their way along the lake.
Then, we had a lovely dinner along the lake, filled with delicious food, bzzzing mosquitos and San Juan cerveza, the only beer brewed in the Amazon.
The next day the real adventure began: the boat to Iquitos (and the subject of my next blog entry).