Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Update #3

Now, for the highlight of my time in Peru: the Andes Mountains. My friend Anna and I were talking about both wanting to go the Andes over our one-week break...and talking turned into a real trip...

Ana, Rick (her partner) and I went with Nilo (a good friend of Arturo) our fearless, expert guide for the Santa Cruz trek. This four day, three night trek took us up over a pass of 4,750 meters or 15,583 feet. It was an incredible trek, filled with incredible sights.

To begin our trip, we took on overnight bus to Huaraz, the main tourist destination to begin all outdoor activities in the Andes. We took a bus-cama (meaning bus-bed) for about $25 which is like first class in an airplane. The seats recline all the way back, we get a cozy fleece blanket, and food and beverage service. Needless to say, I actually slept pretty well.

We rested for a day in Huaraz to acclimatize to the 3,100 meters (about 10,000 feet) which included lots of sleeping, resting, reading, getting a massage, and eating - as well as meeting Nilo for some last minute needs such as water-purifying tablets, snickers and other snacks and a rain poncho (we had rain ponchos personally made for us for about $12). Our second day, we went for a 3-hour walk with Nilo. We realized how beautiful our trek was going to be as the Cordillera Blanca (the White Mountain Range) gave us snow-capped mountains galore. Just a tidbit of information: there are 36 peaks over 6,000 meters (almost 20,000 feet). Incredible, right? Before the hike, Nilo told us it was to acclimatize us for our trek, but since he later told us we "passed the test" I know it was also to make sure that we seemed capable for the trek. As a celebration, we went to a beautiful garden restaurant, hidden away, and had delicious trucha (river trout). Then, it was back to the hostel to rest and pack for the next day...

Day 1:
We had to take a 3 hour bus ride to get to the trail head. Nilo called it a "freaky ride" before we started, but after we safely arrived he renamed it el viaje de terror...and it was. It was up and up and around dangerous curve after curve. I actually sat for most of the trip with my eyes covered and sweat dripping down my face. However, after arriving, all was well. We met our donkey driver and were on our way. We began our trip in the Cordillera Negra (Black Mountain Range) with the sun shining in beautiful clear sky, wearing t-shirts. We passed through a couple of tiny villages and, for a while, had a group of kids following us. They got a special treat as a bizarre event happened: Rick's hiking boots broke. The sole came apart from the boot. They are Scarpa boots, an excellent brand and Nilo just kept repeating "I have never seen this before....in 15 years I have never seen this." But, Rick was relaxed and we took some string and tied the boots together and went on. A few hours later, one of the soles came completed apart from the boot. Luckily, it was a fairly easy walking day and Rick used his Crocs that he had brought along to wear at the campsite. That's when I knew I had chosen good trekking partners: Rick continued hiking in the Andes mountains at about 3,500 meters in Crocs...still smiling and in a good mood. So, we continued walking, talking, snacking and sharing in the glorious surroundings - and glorious they were - and ended our day with a delicious warm meal, coca-leaf tea, a sky filled stars, so clear we could see the Milky Way and think we saw Venus and Mars.


Day 2:
This was the hardest day of the trek. We knew this in advance and were all a bit nervous. I hadn't reacted very well to going up to 4,300 meters while trekking to Machu Picchu in 2006 and was most nervous about the high altitude. However, this is where having previous experience and a good guide comes in (plus my oh so satisfying snickers). From my previous experience, I knew that I would feel worse the higher we went, but that when we went back down I would feel better. So, although I felt like my head my explode, I wasn't freaking out. Nilo by my side, reminding me to rest and take breaks, was also a big help. So, instead of wheezing the way I did before at over 4,000 meters, I actually was just breathing really hard. Actually, I am really proud of all of us: slowly but surely we climbed to the top. (I must mention that about 5 hours into our 9 hour day, Rick's boots completely broke with no hope of repair - and he hiked to 4,750 meters, 15,583 feet, in Crocs!!) As we crossed the pass and saw an incredible mountain peak, glacier and glacier lake, we were all a bit overcome with emotion. Lots of hugs were exchanged and some tears fell....nature is just so amazing.

Days 3 & 4:
With frost on our tents, we began our day with yet another delicious, full meal cooked by Nilo. From this point on, it was mostly either downhill or flat. The landscape continued to change, although the snow-peaked caps never really disappeared. We passed patches of incredible greenery, beautiful glacial lakes, enormous rocks and fascinating cacti, flowers and orange mold. As Anna is a geography teacher, we also talked about how and why land forms the way it does and, repeatedly, about the wonders of tectonic plates and water...which are really what formed the beautiful mountains we were looking at.

We ended the trip the same way we started: a beautiful, clear, sunny day. But, we were changed. As cheesy as this sound, it is true: the incredible Andes had burned themselves into our memory forever.

Our "victory dinner" our first night back in Huaraz was delicious Thai food, followed by a sound night of sleep (it does feel good to get out of the tent and into a warm shower and comfortable bed). Early the next day, Arturo arrived. We had a lovely breakfast, followed by a day of not doing very much at all. It was perfect! Anna, Rick, Arturo and I had dinner together and then Anna and Rick were on their way back to Lima.

We had one more day before I left. We did a bit of rock climbing in the morning and then took the bus to visit Mancos, the town Nilo is from...and also the town where Arturo owns some property. The property is beautiful, so lush and green, and perfectly situated: to one side are the snow-capped mountains in the Cordillera Blanca and to the other side is the lush green farm-filled lands of the Cordillera Negra.

The next morning, I got on the bus and came back to the reality of Lima, a.k.a. work.

All in all, it was an experience I will never forget.

Next big trip: the Amazon in July!

p.s. If you want to see all of the photos, go to: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=9od46cm.9emqrblu&x=0&y=-z8vocm&localeid=en_US

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Update #2

Now, for the whole reason we went to the States: Christian and Emi's wedding:

We got to NJ on Saturday and went straight to meet Sebastian, Arturo's new nephew.

What a cutie!

He's got light hair, blue eyes, and that amazing baby smell. He's a pretty mellow little baby who loves to walk (or rather be carried) about, held tight and close.

After spending some time hanging out with Sebastian, we went to meet Arturo's parents and eldest brother, Martin, at the hotel. Arturo and I gave Sebastian his gifts, both from us in Peru and some lovely clothes my grandmother picked out to send along.
Then, we lazed about the hotel room for the rest of the afternoon. I took a lovely little nap with Sebastian...who continued sleeping on Arturo after I woke up!

At night, we walked over to the nearby Outback Steakhouse for a classic American...oops, I mean Australian...dinner, followed by some drinks and more conversation back at the hotel.

The next day was the big day: the wedding. We all enjoyed a leisurely breakfeast buffet (which was free thanks to Arturo who used to work with one of the waitresses) and returned to the room to get ready.

Finally, we were all dressed, ready and in the cab to Weehawken for pictures with the Manhattan skyline behind us.
From there, we left for the marina in Queens, our departure point for the wedding cruise around Manhattan.
The ceremony was performed on-board before we left the dock. Then, we had cocktail hour, followed by dinner and dancing -- all while we were driving around Manhattan, viewing all the sights. I met many of Arturo's family members that lived in the NYC-area. Some I knew already, some I met for the first time. For me, one of the most fun parts was able to hold my own in Spanish. Although I'm sure the cocktails helpled, I finally felt confident with my Spanish and realized how much I have improved (Of course, when I told Arturo this he told me that's what he's been telling me for months).
The night moved along and we went outside to view the Statue of Liberty and the Brookyn Bridge...and then returned inside and promptly forgot all about Manhattan as we danced the rest of the night away.









The next day, Arturo and I got up early and took the bus into the city and then the train to JFK...and I went back to Lima while Arturo and the rest of his family stayed for the rest of the week to enjoy Christian, Emi and Sebastian's company, plus NYC and NJ. They went to Central Park, the Bodies Exhibit, the Brooklyn Bridge and, of course, to enjoy a good hamburger!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Update #1

So much has been going on for the past few weeks...a quick visit back to the States and a week's holiday climbing in the Andes. For now, I'll start with the trip back home and go from there (Update #2 and #3 coming up soon!).


WHY GO HOME FOR THREE DAYS?
Arturo's brother's wedding was on the last Sunday in April. I arrived with Arturo and his parents on Friday afternoon, but I had to return to Peru on Monday morning to finish teaching for the week. Luckily there's only a one hour time difference.


HOW WAS THE TRIP?
Aside from the fact that it was a whirlwind of a visit, it was really fun.


WHAT DID I DO?
On Friday, Arturo and I met his brother at LaGuardia, said a quick hello, and left to go to my grandmother's house. After another quick hello, we went to run some important errands. First, I got my International Driver's Permit. Now, I've got a year before I have to take the Peruvian Driving Test. Yeah! After depositing some money in the bank, we stopped by our favorite store, EMS, and managed to find Arturo a $100 coat for $40 because of a broken zipper.


Then, we went back to grandma's house where Mom and Wayne were waiting for us. Despite terrible traffic and some track problems, Dad, Sarita, Effie, Benjamin, and Leo were able to make it to dinner. As usual, grandma prepared a delicious - and enormous - meal. Of course, in addition to the delicious food, we had some wonderful conversations. It was so, so great to catch up!

After staying up late going through the boxes and packing up more clothing to bring to Peru, Arturo and I left early the next morning to head to NJ for the wedding weekend. We walked from Penn Station to Port Authority, a mere 8 blocks, but it felt great to be in the city...and tasted good, too. We had 'dirty water dogs' which tasted yummmy!


Next, it was off to NJ to meet Arturo's nephew and get ready for the wedding on Sunday. Details coming up in Update #2...