Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Back to reality & an announcement

Alexis and Dana are back in their respective homes telling, I am sure, lots of tales of their adventure. Here is a brief retelling:

After spending a lovely couple of days in Lima -- most especially enjoying Larco Mar, the shopping mall built into the side of the sea cliff, and Pisco Sours -- Alexis met Dana at the airport, flew to Cusco and were promptly told that there is a strike and their entire trip was up in the air.

Troopers that they were, they remained calm and woke up at 3:00 a.m. to take an alternative and, of course, longer route, to get to Machu Picchu. Following their excellent tour and almost crowd-free visit to the famous site, they hoped that they would make it back to Cusco for the night (as they were told, yet again, only that it might work out).

Luck was on their side and they made it back to Cusco, only to discover the next day that all flights out of Cusco were canceled. The best alternative, the bus, was completely full. Thanks to the "team" working for them (Arturo and a tourist agency), they took a bus to Puno and enjoyed a one day tour of Lake Titicaca...plus a definite flight back to Lima on Sunday morning.

However, long before their flight was scheduled to leave began a night-time game of "Who gets the bathroom." Alexis had a bit of an upset stomach, while Dana's body was completely rejecting something she ate. After a night of nonstop vomiting, they were afraid they wouldn't be able to make the flight.

Apparently at the tiny airport of Juliaca, Dana caused quite a scene...but after a security guard took her blood pressure and she was offered unlimited coca leaves, someone gave her an anti-nauseous pill which allowed her the strength to get on the plane. Thanks to the wonderful staff of LAN, Dana was permitted to sit (on the floor) near the bathroom for easy access during the hour and half flight. I am sad to say, I have no photos to share from this.

Meanwhile, our plans for a relaxing beach weekend seemed to be over. Then again, maybe not. We knew that Alexis and Dana wouldn't get back to Lima until late Sunday afternoon and it just seemed a waste not to take advantage of Martin's offer to come to his beach house for the weekend...so, Arturo and I joined his brother and friends at the beach area called Asia.

It was was of the best weekends I've had in Peru. The beach area basically consists of several developments, each of which includes houses (with no security fences covering them the way it is in Lima), tennis courts, soccer fields, and, of course, direct beach access. It wasn't empty, but didn't feel overcrowded. Houses could only be one floor, but all contained roof-top patios with small pools. Every house was painted white and contained huge glass walls, surrounded by flowers and grass.

In addition to riding bicycles around, walking along the beach (the Pacific is way too cold to swim!), we enjoyed delicious food. Martin told us that he was taking care of all the food for the weekend...and we were all very pleasantly surprised at what a masterful chef he was. He cooked an incredibly meal of swordfish with rosemary, salad with vegetables and grilled chicken, and risotto. Incredible!

Of course, I can never be anywhere without finding some negative. The one thing that was obvious from looking around at the mountains of sand around us, I realized that we were essentially in the middle of the desert. However, I decided to ignore how much water and other natural resources were used up to create the beautiful oasis -- and decided that we're definitely getting a beach house next summer.

Essentially, renting a house for the summer is like getting a share on Fire Island or the Hamptons -- but better! For about $3,500, Arturo's brother had a private bedroom, with two beds, and a private bathroom, less than a one minute walk to the beach for 3 whole months. How far away from Lima is this? Only about an hour! (So, friends, you might want to plan a trip to visit sometime from December - February).
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Announcement:
Arturo's nephew is born!

Sebastian was born at about 3:00 a.m. on Sunday, February 24. Arturo and Martin followed Peruvian tradition and began celebrating the night before. Here they are, celebrating (baby pictures to come soon).

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The weekend ended with a reunion at our apartment in Lima - with a very sick Dana. We went to the pharmacy, got some more medicine, and then Dana slept for the entire day while Alexis, Arturo and I (finally) went out for some delicious ceviche and other seafood, walked along the surfing beach near our apartment, and had a final Pisco Sour at the beautiful Rosa Nautica on the water before Alexis headed to the airport for her flight home.

(Oddly enough, at the same time, my grandmother in NY and a colleague's son in Italy, also seemed to have a terrible stomach virus.)

On Monday, I left school a bit early, I came home to a bright-red Dana. Since she felt better, she had walked down to the beach...forgetting sunblock and the fact that Peru is much closer to the equator than San Francisco where she lives. Did an upset stomach, dehydration and sunburn stop Dana? No! We walked around a bit, sitting down to enjoy a snack, and even do a bit of shopping. Then, we went to Barranco, the 'bohemian' section of Lima with beautiful old buildings, and enjoyed Italian food (her stomach still wasn't the best). Of course, she was promptly sick when we got home, but was still, unbelievably, fun to hang out with. Next morning, at 5:30 a.m., she hopped into a taxi and - medicine in hand - began the long journey back home.

Despite a bit more adventure than I had hoped for Alexis and Dana, I had an incredible time with both of them. It was fun to have friends here and fun to show friends what I love about Lima.

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